Brain Coral Care Guide: Trachyphyllia, Lobophyllia, Favia & More

1. What Are Brain Corals?

“Brain coral” is a hobby umbrella term covering a group of large-polyp stony (LPS) coral genera whose colonies form rounded shapes with serpentine ridges and valleys that resemble the surface of a human brain [1]. The category spans multiple families and several genera that aren’t closely related taxonomically — what they share is a visual signature, not a common evolutionary lineage [1].

The hobby brain corals belong to two major families: [2]

• Merulinidae — Trachyphyllia, Favia, Favites, Platygyra, Wellsophyllia, and others [3]. Most “brain corals” the hobby recognizes are in this family. [4]
• Lobophylliidae — Lobophyllia, Symphyllia, and related genera [5]. These are often called “lobed” or “meat coral” brains. [6]

From a reefkeeping perspective, brain corals are some of the most rewarding LPS to keep [7]. They are visually dramatic, hold color reliably, feed actively at night, and grow at a moderate rate that allows aquascaping plans to actually pay off [8]. They are largely beginner-to-intermediate friendly, sit in the middle price range between mushrooms and designer LPS, and many serve as the centerpiece of well-aged reef tanks. [9]

2. Open Brain vs Closed Brain

The first distinction every reefer learns is “open brain” vs “closed brain.” The terms describe how the tissue fills and presents during the daytime. [10]

Open Brain

Trachyphyllia and Wellsophyllia are the canonical open brain corals [11]. During the day, the tissue inflates and expands dramatically, often to 2–3 times the size of the underlying skeleton, producing flowing folded shapes that hide the skeleton entirely [12]. The mouth-line valleys remain visible as deep creases in the inflated tissue [13]. Open brains place loose on the sandbed.

Closed Brain

Lobophyllia, Symphyllia, Favia, Favites, and Platygyra are closed brains [14]. The tissue stays closer to the skeleton, with distinct polyps separated by clear walls or grooves [1]. The skeleton is visible as a structural framework [2]. Closed brains typically attach firmly to rock and don’t inflate dramatically. [3]

3. Trachyphyllia (Open Brain)

Trachyphyllia geoffroyi is the canonical open brain coral and one of the most popular LPS in the hobby [3]. Native to soft-bottom lagoons across the Indo-Pacific, Trachyphyllia are free-living — they don’t attach to rock [4]. They sit loose on the sandbed.

Identification

• Dome-shaped skeleton with deep valleys and ridges
• Tissue inflates dramatically during the day, often hiding the skeleton entirely [5]
• Comes in striking colors: red, green, rainbow patterns, and brilliant multi-color combinations [6]
• Solitary (single individual on each skeleton)

Care Notes

• Place on sandbed only. Trachyphyllia are free-living and need to sit on soft substrate [7]. Placement on rock can damage the underside. [8]
• PAR 50–120. They prefer low to moderate lighting. [9]
• Flow: gentle and indirect. Direct flow folds the inflated tissue and prevents proper feeding. [10]
• Feeding: highly responsive. Mysis, brine, or chopped meaty foods consumed eagerly. [11]
• Color: stable across moderate parameters; doesn’t require ULN tank conditions. [12]

The “Rainbow Trach” Phenomenon

Multi-color Trachyphyllia — sometimes called Rainbow Trachs or Master Trachs — can have 4–6 distinct colors visible across a single specimen: red base, green ridges, blue mouths, yellow oral discs [13]. These are highly photogenic and command $300–$800+ USD per specimen globally [14]. They remain solitary individuals but are valued like designer LPS [1]. [2]

4. Lobophyllia & Symphyllia

Lobophyllia and Symphyllia are closely related closed brain genera in the family Lobophylliidae [4]. They sit immediately adjacent to designer LPS like Acanthastrea and Micromussa — same family, similar care, often similar designer morph culture. [2]

Lobophyllia

• Distinct lobed polyps separated by clear walls
• Each lobe can be a different color in designer morphs [3]
• Thick fleshy tissue covers the skeleton during the day [4]
• Strong overnight sweeper tentacles — aggressive neighbor
• Common morphs: Master Splinter Lobo, Rainbow Lobo, Sherbet Lobo [5]

Symphyllia

• Continuous valleys rather than distinct polyps
• Two main hobby species: S. wilsoni (more elongated valleys) and S. recta (more rounded) [6]
• Slower growing than Lobophyllia
• Designer morphs include Crazy Eddie Brain, Master Sym, Rainbow Sym [7]

Both Lobophyllia and Symphyllia were historically called “meat corals” in the trade because of their dense fleshy tissue and distinctive ridged appearance [8]. The hobby still uses “Symphyllia” and “Lobophyllia” somewhat interchangeably for similar-looking specimens. [9]

5. Favia, Favites & Platygyra

These three closed-brain genera in the family Merulinidae form the “massive” brain coral tier — encrusting or submassive colonies with distinct polyp patterning [5].

Favia

Polyps are round-spaced, each surrounded by clear gaps [10]. Often called “moon coral” or “star coral” due to the polyp pattern resembling stars on a dome [11]. Popular morphs: War Coral Favia, Aurora Favia, Rainbow Favia. [12]

Favites

Polyps are hexagonal and tightly packed sharing walls, creating a honeycomb appearance [13]. Often called “pineapple coral” due to the geometric look [14]. Many designer Favites come from Australia and command premium prices. [1]

Platygyra

Polyps are elongated valleys that twist and turn across the colony surface in maze-like patterns [2]. The classic “maze brain” coral [3]. Often confused with Symphyllia but distinguished by closer-spaced valleys and shallower walls [4]. Popular morphs: Lava Brain Platygyra, Maze Brain. [5]

6. Wellsophyllia (Rainbow Wellso)

Wellsophyllia radiata is often confused with Trachyphyllia because of similar inflated tissue and free-living habit [6]. The distinction matters for collectors: Wellso has multiple mouths on a single skeleton (colonial), while Trachyphyllia is solitary (one mouth) [6].

Wellso colonies grow larger than Trachyphyllia because of their colonial nature — a healthy specimen can exceed 25 cm across [7]. Multi-color “Rainbow Wellso” are some of the most spectacular reef-tank centerpieces in the hobby, with retail pricing ranging $500–$2,500 USD globally for premium specimens [8]. [5]

Care: identical to Trachyphyllia. Place on sandbed only, moderate light, gentle flow, regular meaty feedings. [9]

7. Designer Morphs

Designer brain corals span several lineages [10]. Unlike chalice and Acan where named morphs trade in single-polyp frags, brain corals often trade as full specimens because they can’t be fragged into single-polyp pieces. [11]

8. Tank Requirements

Brain corals share most parameter targets with other LPS like Euphyllia and designer LPS [3]. They benefit from stable parameters more than perfect numbers. [4]

Brain corals tolerate slightly higher nutrients than SPS — running an ULN tank is unnecessary and often counterproductive for color saturation [5]. See the reef chemistry guide for parameter management. [6]

9. Lighting & Flow

Lighting

• Trachyphyllia / Wellsophyllia (open brains): 50–120 PAR [7]. They evolved in deeper, shaded lagoon zones [8]. Higher PAR causes tissue burnout and color loss. [9]
• Lobophyllia / Symphyllia: 70–150 PAR [10]. Slightly more flexible.
• Favia / Favites / Platygyra: 80–180 PAR [11]. The most light-tolerant of the brain coral group. [12]

All brain corals do well under standard reef spectrum [13]. Red and orange morphs benefit from added red supplementation (660 nm) to keep the saturated colors that designer specimens are valued for. [14]

Flow

• Open brains: very gentle, indirect flow. Direct flow folds the inflated tissue and prevents feeding. [1]
• Closed brains: moderate indirect flow is fine [2]. Random pulse modes work well.
• Avoid laminar direct blast on all brain corals — tissue damage occurs even on the more robust closed brains. [3]

10. Feeding & Night Sweepers

Brain corals are active predators. They capture and consume meaty foods readily, and feeding them is one of the most satisfying behaviors in the reef hobby [4]. Most brain corals extend long sweeper tentacles at night — a different appearance than their daytime polyp extension, and the prime feeding window [5]. [1]

What to Feed

• Frozen mysis shrimp — the gold standard for brain corals. 2–3 mysis per polyp per feeding. [6]
• Brine shrimp — supplemental, easier for smaller-polyp species like Favia. [7]
• Chopped silversides, krill — great for larger polyp species like Trachyphyllia and Lobophyllia. [8]
• Pellets crushed to coral-mouth size — convenient and reliable. [9]
• Reef Roids supplemental — for fine particulate background nutrition. [10]

When to Feed

Night feeding — once sweepers are extended (usually 1–2 hours after lights off) [11]. The sweepers fold inward to bring food to the mouth. [12]

Daytime spot feeding works too — gently target food onto each polyp mouth, holding it close until the polyp closes around it [13]. Most brain corals respond within a few weeks to consistent daytime feeding by associating the feeding stick with food and reaching for it. [14]

How Often

• New brain corals: 3–4 times per week for the first month to establish feeding response. [1]
• Established colonies: 2–3 times per week.
• For color saturation: increased feeding frequency boosts pigmentation over 4–8 weeks. [2]

11. Placement & Aggression

Brain corals extend long sweeper tentacles at night — 5–15 cm beyond visible daytime polyp extension [7]. They are competent stingers despite their fleshy appearance [3]. [2]

• Open brains (Trachyphyllia, Wellsophyllia): sandbed placement only [4]. Allow 10+ cm clearance from neighbors for sweeper extension. [5]
• Closed brains: lower-to-middle rockwork placement [6]. Allow 10+ cm clearance from other LPS.
• Brain vs Euphyllia: both have sweepers. Give 10–15 cm clearance.
• Brain vs Goniopora: Goniopora sweepers can overwhelm smaller brain corals [7]. Place brain corals upstream of Goniopora in flow patterns. [8]
• Brain vs chalice/Acan: generally compatible neighbors at 10 cm spacing. [9]
• Brain-on-brain touching: closely related species (two Lobophyllia, two Favia) usually tolerate touching; different genera will sting each other. [10]

12. Common Problems

Tissue Recession

The most common brain coral problem is tissue receding from the edges of the colony, exposing the underlying skeleton [11]. Causes: parameter swings (especially alkalinity), excessive flow, lighting too high, or pest infestation [12]. Treatment: stabilize parameters, reduce light/flow, resume feeding, give 4–8 weeks for tissue regrowth [13]. [3]

Brown Jelly Disease

Like all LPS, brain corals can develop brown jelly — a slimy brown coating of necrotic tissue and bacteria [14]. Cut affected tissue back well past the boundary, dip in CoralRx, and improve flow to prevent recurrence [1]. Brown jelly often follows physical damage or stress. [2]

Not Inflating (Open Brains)

A Trachyphyllia that stays deflated for more than 3–5 days indicates stress [3]. Causes: too much flow, too much light, parameter swing, recent introduction stress, or sweeper sting from a neighbor [4]. Move to a calmer sandbed location with lower light, resume feeding, and wait [5]. Healthy specimens recover within 1–2 weeks [6]. [1]

Pest Infestation

Brain corals can host coral-eating flatworms and small nudibranchs in the tissue folds [7]. Visual inspection at the dip stage and routine dipping when introducing new specimens prevents infestation [8]. See the full reef pests guide.

13. Where to Buy

AllCorals tracks brain coral listings from 14+ Thai reef shops [9]. Browse current inventory:

• Trachyphyllia — open brain
• Lobophyllia
• Favia
• War Coral Favia morphs
• Rainbow Wellso when available
• Master Splinter brain lineage

See related LPS guides: Euphyllia care, Goniopora, and Designer LPS (chalice/Acan/Micromussa) [10]. The shops directory lists every tracked Thai reef shop. [11]

14. Frequently Asked Questions

References

1. Corals of the World — Family Merulinidae overview [2]
2. Reef Builders — Brain Coral Care Overview
3. Tidal Gardens — Trachyphyllia Care Guide
4. Tidal Gardens — Lobophyllia Care Guide
5. Saltwater Aquarium Blog — Favia Coral Care Guide [3]
6. Reefs.com — Wellsophyllia vs Trachyphyllia identification
7. Bulk Reef Supply — LPS Coral Care Guide [4]
8. Reef Chasers — Brain Coral Care
9. Advanced Aquarist — LPS Coral Feeding Studies
10. Reef2Reef — Trachyphyllia care community thread
11. Cherry Corals — Designer Brain Coral Lineages
12. World Wide Corals — WWC Designer Brain Coral Lineages (Master Splinter, etc.) [5]
13. CoralRx — Coral Dipping Guide
14. Melev’s Reef — Brain Coral Long-term Care Notes [6]