Designer LPS Guide: Chalice, Acan & Micromussa

1. What Counts as “Designer” LPS?

“Designer LPS” isn’t a taxonomic group — it’s a market category [1]. In the reef hobby, designer LPS refers to a handful of slow-growing, colorful, large-polyp stony coral genera whose named morphs command premium prices and trade in a collector culture more like aquarium fish than ordinary corals [1].

The three genera that dominate the category:

• Chalice corals — the family Pectiniidae, including Echinophyllia, Mycedium, and Oxypora. [2]
• Acan corals — historically Acanthastrea, now mostly reclassified. [3]
• Micromussa — primarily Micromussa lordhowensis, the species formerly known as Acanthastrea lordhowensis. [4]

All three share the traits that make designer LPS a market segment: dense fleshy tissue, dramatic patterning, slow but reliable growth, color stability across reasonable conditions, and a thriving named-morph trade [5]. A single 1-polyp frag of a top-named designer can sell for $200–$1,500+ globally, and a single colony can exceed $5,000 in premium named lines [2].

2. Chalice Genera (Echinophyllia, Mycedium, Oxypora)

The word “chalice” in the hobby groups three genera in the family Pectiniidae — all of which produce broad, plating or vase-shaped colonies with dramatic polyp patterning [3].

In Thai and global reef shops, all three are usually marketed under the umbrella term “chalice.” Distinguishing them matters mostly to collectors building documented lineage-named pieces. [6]

• Echinophyllia are the most beginner-friendly [7]. Many classic named chalices (Master Splinter, Watermelon, Bowerbanki) are Echinophyllia. [8]
• Mycedium hold their distinctive eye-spot pattern reliably [9]. Bizarro chalice is a Mycedium lineage.
• Oxypora grow as thin paper-like plates. They’re the most flow- and light-sensitive of the three. [10]

3. Acan & Micromussa Reclassification

The term “acan” in the hobby has changed meaning [11]. The taxonomy is worth knowing.

Historically, the popular acan corals in the hobby were called Acanthastrea lordhowensis [12]. In 2016, a major taxonomic revision moved this species (and several others) out of Acanthastrea into the genus Micromussa [4]. The species is now correctly Micromussa lordhowensis [13]. The reef trade has been slow to update labeling — you’ll see the same coral sold as “Acan Lord,” “Acanthastrea lord,” or “Micromussa lordhowensis” depending on the seller’s era. [14]

Other commonly-traded designer LPS in the family Lobophylliidae: [1]

• Acanthastrea echinata — the original true Acan, still called “ult acan” or “echinata acan” in the trade. [2]
• Acanthastrea bowerbanki — large polyp, distinct, holds dramatic color morphs. [3]
• Lobophyllia spp. — brain corals; share many care patterns with Acan. [4]
• Symphyllia spp. — closely related to Lobophyllia; designer morphs trade actively. [5]

4. Why Prices Skyrocket

A named designer chalice frag at $500 isn’t expensive because the coral is hard to grow — it’s expensive because of the economics of slow growth meeting collector demand [2]. [5]

5. Major Designer Names

A non-exhaustive list of the most recognized designer LPS lineages [2]. Names persist for years — if you see these in a shop today, expect a premium. [3]

Chalice (Echinophyllia / Mycedium / Oxypora)

• Master Splinter — classic green-eye watermelon Echinophyllia [4]. One of the most reliable chalice lineages. [5]
• JF Bizarro — Jason Fox lineage, distinct red and blue mouthed Mycedium. [6]
• Cherry Bomb — Cherry Corals lineage, vivid red-orange-purple Echinophyllia. [7]
• Mummy Eye — deep red Echinophyllia with white-rimmed mouths. [8]
• Bowerbanki Rainbow — multi-color polyp Bowerbanki (despite name often used loosely). [9]
• Watermelon Chalice — pink-green pattern Echinophyllia, the OG designer chalice from the early 2000s. [10]
• Miami Hurricane — deep purple plates with brilliant orange-yellow mouths. [11]

Micromussa lordhowensis / Acan

• Rainbow Acan — the umbrella name for multi-color Micromussa lordhowensis polyps. [12]
• Bleeding Apple — classic red center, green ring, blue eye morph. [13]
• Hellfire — fiery red and orange center on green base. [14]
• JF Wolverine — Jason Fox lineage; yellow, red, and blue striped pattern. [1]
• Strawberry Shortcake Acan — pink-red center on white-cream base. [2]

Acanthastrea echinata

• Ult Acan — deeply saturated traditional Acanthastrea echinata morphs, often Australia-collected. [3]
• JF Marvel — Jason Fox echinata with rainbow patterning. [4]

6. Tank Requirements

Designer LPS are tolerant within a wide stable range [5]. They benefit from steady parameters more than perfect numbers [5].

The biggest parameter pitfall for designer LPS is running them in an SPS-tuned ULN tank [6]. Like Goniopora, chalice and Micromussa color up best with moderate nutrients and regular feeding [7]. See the reef chemistry guide for parameter management strategy [8]. [3]

7. Lighting

Designer LPS prefer low to moderate lighting — typically PAR 50–150 [6]. Higher PAR causes color burnout (bright morphs fade to brown) and tissue retraction. [9]

PAR Targets

• Chalice (Echinophyllia, Mycedium, Oxypora): 50–120 PAR [10]. Many do best at PAR 70–90. Higher PAR causes color burnout (brilliant reds and oranges fade to brown). [11]
• Acanthastrea echinata: 80–150 PAR. Slightly more flexible than chalice.
• Micromussa lordhowensis: 70–130 PAR [12]. Sweet spot around 90–110.

Spectrum

Designer LPS look most spectacular under blue-heavy spectrum with violet and UV supplementation [13]. Reef-grade LEDs (Radion, Hydra, Mitras, Reefi) all bring out chalice fluorescence dramatically [7]. Avoid pure-white spectrum — it makes chalices look muddy and Acan reds turn brown. [14]

Acclimating to New Light

Place new designer LPS in the lowest-PAR zone of the tank for the first 1–2 weeks, then move up gradually [1]. Sudden light-shock bleaching is the #1 reason a $500 chalice frag fails [2]. Use a PAR meter if available. See the acclimation guide for the protocol [3]. [2]

8. Flow

Designer LPS want low to moderate, indirect flow [4]. Direct laminar flow tears the delicate edges of chalice plates and causes Acan polyps to retract [3].

• Chalice (especially Oxypora): the most flow-sensitive [5]. Place out of direct flow zones. Indirect bounce or random pulse modes only. [6]
• Acan / Micromussa: tolerate slightly stronger flow but still benefit from indirect placement. [7]
• Watch the edges. If the plate edges fold or polyps stay retracted, reduce flow or move to a sheltered spot. [8]
• Avoid recirculating flow from skimmer return outlets — they tend to be too directional. [9]

For broader tank flow strategy, see the water flow guide. [10]

9. Feeding & Sweepers

Designer LPS are responsive feeders. Unlike Montipora or other small-polyp corals, they capture and consume meaty foods readily. [11]

Sweeper Tentacles — the Night Behavior

Most designer LPS extend long sweeper tentacles at night — thin filamentous tentacles 5–15 cm long that probe surrounding space for food and for adjacent corals to sting [3]. The sweeper extension is also the feeding window for many species [12]. A chalice or Acan that doesn’t produce visible sweepers at night is often under-fed [13]. [1]

What to Feed

• Frozen mysis shrimp — the gold standard for designer LPS. 1–2 mysis per polyp per feeding. [14]
• Brine shrimp — smaller, easier to capture for Acan polyps. [1]
• Krill, chopped silversides — for larger chalice polyps. [2]
• Reef Roids and similar particulate — supplemental nutrition between meaty feedings. [3]
• Pellets crushed to coral-mouth size — convenient for many keepers. [4]

When to Feed

• Night feeding — once sweeper tentacles are extended (usually 1–2 hours after lights off) [5]. This is the most reliable feeding window. [6]
• Daytime spot feeding works but requires patience — gently target food directly onto the polyp mouth and wait [7]. Most colonies will respond after 4–6 weeks of consistent feeding. [8]

How Often

• New designer LPS: 3–4 times per week, small portions. [9]
• Established colonies: 2–3 times per week is sufficient. [10]
• For color burst: increased feeding frequency reliably intensifies fluorescent pigments over 4–8 weeks. [11]

10. Placement & Aggression

Designer LPS extend long, well-armed sweeper tentacles at night and are competent stingers despite their fleshy appearance [12]. Plan placement assuming the sweepers will reach 10+ cm [13]. [2]

• Lower 1/3 of the tank is the standard placement — lower light, gentler flow, and easy feeding access. [14]
• Stable, level placement — tilted chalice plates collect debris on the underside and develop dead zones. [1]
• 10+ cm clearance from all neighbors. Chalice sweepers will sting other LPS, SPS, and even larger softies given time. [2]
• Chalice-on-chalice aggression — different species and morphs will sting each other [3]. Same-species touching usually fuses without damage. [4]
• Acan / Micromussa aggression — more limited than chalice [5]. Generally safe to place within 5–7 cm of other Acans. [6]
• Designer LPS vs Euphyllia: both have sweepers [7]. Give 10–15 cm of space between them. [8]

11. Fragging Designer LPS

Fragging designer LPS is the most technically demanding kind of coral fragging in the hobby [9]. The paper-thin chalice plates require precise tools and careful handling [10]. See the complete fragging guide for broader context, tools, and dipping protocols. [11]

Chalice — the Paper-Thin Technique

Acan / Micromussa — the Easier Frag

Acan and Micromussa frag more easily than chalice [6]. Use bone cutters or a band saw to remove a small chunk containing 1–3 polyps [7]. The thicker tissue tolerates cutting much better than chalice [8]. Each polyp grows back fully within 1–3 months. [9]

12. Where to Buy

Designer LPS pricing in Thailand spans an enormous range [10]. Browse current inventory:

• All LPS listings on AllCorals
• Chalice corals — Echinophyllia, Mycedium, Oxypora across multiple shops [11]
• Acan / Micromussa lordhowensis listings
• Bowerbanki — large-polyp Acanthastrea
• Lobophyllia — brain corals, related family

See also the Euphyllia care guide for the LPS spine, the coral color guide for the morph-naming and color culture, and the shops directory for individual reef shops — some specialize in designer LPS. [12]

13. Frequently Asked Questions

References

1. Reef Builders — The Designer LPS Tier (market overview) [2]
2. Reef2Reef — Designer LPS Pricing & Lineage threads [3]
3. Tidal Gardens — Chalice Coral Care Guide
4. Corals of the World — Micromussa lordhowensis reclassification (2016) [4]
5. Saltwater Aquarium Blog — Acan Coral Care Guide [5]
6. Advanced Aquarist — PAR measurements for low-light LPS [6]
7. Bulk Reef Supply — LPS Coral Lighting
8. Reef Chasers — Chalice Coral Care
9. Cherry Corals — Designer LPS Lineage House (Cherry Bomb, etc.) [7]
10. World Wide Corals — WWC Designer LPS Lineages [8]
11. Jason Fox Signature Corals — JF Designer LPS Lineages (Bizarro, Wolverine, Marvel) [9]
12. CoralRx — Coral Dipping Guide
13. Reef2Reef — Chalice Fragging Community Guide (band saw vs cutters) [10]
14. Reefkeeping Magazine — Chalice & Acan early-hobby care literature [11]