How do I cycle my tank with pure ammonia (fishless cycling)?
When: Once your tank is set up (salt, heater, flow, rock, sand) and you've chosen the fishless method
Short answer: Set the tank up fully, dose aquarium-grade ammonium chloride to about 2–4 ppm, and test every 2–3 days. When nitrite appears, keep ammonia near 2 ppm. You're done when a fresh ~2 ppm dose is processed to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite within 24 hours. On dosed ammonia alone this takes about 3–6 weeks; add bottled bacteria to cut it to 1–2 weeks.
The details — the steps
- Set up completely first. Rock, sand, salt water at ~1.025 sg, heater at 75–78°F, and circulation pumps running. The cycle needs a stable environment.
- Dose ammonia to 2–4 ppm. Use only reagent-grade or aquarium-specific ammonium chloride (e.g. Dr. Tim's, Fritz Fishless Fuel). A common dose is 4 drops of Dr. Tim's per gallon = about 2 ppm. Never use household ammonia — it has toxic additives.
- Test every 2–3 days for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Record readings so you can see the pattern.
- Hold near the target until nitrite appears. As Nitrosomonas grows, ammonia will start dropping and nitrite will rise.
- Once nitrite is present, redose ammonia to ~2 ppm whenever it falls below ~1 ppm. Don't "chase" an exact number — dose and move on. Don't dose daily; only when it drops.
- Wait out the nitrite spike. Nitrite can climb to 2–5+ ppm before the second bacteria (Nitrobacter) catches up and drives it back to zero. This is the longest-feeling part.
- Confirm the cycle with the 24-hour test — see is-my-tank-done-cycling.
The numbers
| Parameter | Target during cycling |
|---|---|
| Ammonia dose | 2–4 ppm to start, ~2 ppm once nitrite appears |
| Ammonia / nitrite ceiling | Never above 5 ppm (inhibits bacteria) |
| pH | Keep above 7.0; ideal 8.0–8.3 |
| Temperature | 75–78°F (warmer ~84°F speeds it up) |
Common mistakes
- Chasing the exact ppm. Dosing to a perfect 2.0 every day stresses you and the bacteria. Redose only when it drops below ~1 ppm.
- Water changes mid-cycle. They remove the ammonia the bacteria need. Only change water if something spikes past 5 ppm or pH crashes.
- Ammonia-removing products (AmGuard, Ammo-Lock, Prime as a routine) during cycling — they bind the ammonia and starve your bacteria.
- Letting pH crash. Nitrification is acidifying; if pH falls below ~6.5 the cycle stalls. Fix with a 25–50% water change.
When to worry
- Normal: A big nitrite spike (even 5 ppm) that sits high for a week or two. That's the hardest part of the cycle, not a failure.
- Worry: Ammonia or nitrite pinned above 5 ppm for days — that concentration inhibits the very bacteria you're growing. Do a partial water change to bring it under 5.
What's next
Track what each phase should look like in cycling-water-parameters-by-phase, then confirm you're finished with is-my-tank-done-cycling.
- Ammonia or nitrite above 5 ppm (inhibits the bacteria — do a water change)
- pH dropping below 6.5 (stalls the cycle)
- Reef Tank Cycling Research (internal)
- Dr. Tim's Aquatics — Fishless Cycling
- AquariumStoreDepot — Ultimate Guide to Fishless Cycling